🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.